The Boot of Cortez gold nugget weighs 26.2 pounds and is 98% pure gold.
Photo credit – Jeff Noble /
jeffnoblepictures.com
EJ’s Auction & Appraisal’s “Fine & Important Jewels: Antique to Contemporary” Auction takes place on Friday, September 4
GLENDALE, Ariz. (August 31, 2026) – When it comes to buying fine jewelry, most shoppers naturally focus on the obvious: the size of the diamond, the beauty of the design and the price. But experienced jewelry collectors know that determining the value and appeal of an exceptional piece involves much more.
From craftsmanship and gemstone quality to age, rarity, condition and historical significance, there are many factors to consider when purchasing fine jewelry, particularly when buying at auction.
With EJ’s Auction & Appraisal’s “Fine & Important Jewels: Antique to Contemporary” auction taking place September 4, prospective buyers have an opportunity to explore an impressive selection of diamonds, emeralds, platinum and gold. The collection also provides an excellent lesson in what makes fine jewelry truly special.
Look Beyond the 4 Cs
The traditional 4 Cs—cut, color, clarity and carat weight—are important considerations when evaluating a diamond. But they are not the only things that determine a piece’s desirability.
Consider Lot 38, a 14k gold engagement ring featuring a 4.26-carat Old European-cut diamond. Beyond its impressive size, the diamond has a VVS2 clarity grade and I-J color. Its Old European cut also gives the stone a distinctive character associated with an earlier era of diamond cutting.
For buyers interested in antique and vintage jewelry, understanding the characteristics of different diamond cuts can be particularly valuable. An older diamond isn’t necessarily going to look or be evaluated in the same way as a modern brilliant-cut diamond, and that’s part of what makes vintage jewelry so intriguing.
Consider the Jewelry’s Design Period
A beautiful piece of jewelry can also be a reflection of the era in which it was created.
Lot 21, an Art Deco platinum diamond and emerald bracelet, demonstrates this beautifully. Its geometric, architectural design incorporates articulated platinum sections, baguette and marquise-shaped diamonds, more than 200 individual diamonds and six natural emeralds.
Art Deco jewelry is prized for its distinctive combination of geometry, symmetry and craftsmanship. For collectors, owning a piece from a recognizable design period can offer something beyond the intrinsic value of its gemstones and precious metals: a tangible connection to the history of jewelry design.
Don’t Overlook Craftsmanship and Unusual Details
Some of the most memorable jewelry pieces are those that can’t easily be compared with anything else.
Lot 29, a massive 18k gold starburst pendant necklace, is a striking example. The 28-inch bark-style gold chain weighs approximately 182 grams by itself, while the total necklace weighs approximately 255 grams.
The centerpiece measures approximately three inches in diameter and features a Japanese Order of the Rising Sun design, accented with natural diamonds, natural cabochon emeralds and a central red cabochon. The piece also incorporates green and red enameled paulownia leaves.
With approximately four carats of diamonds and an estimated 4.2 carats of natural emeralds, the necklace is impressive in terms of materials but its unusual design and cultural elements are what make it particularly intriguing.
Pay Attention to Gemstones Beyond Diamonds
Diamonds may dominate the fine jewelry market, but colored gemstones can be equally compelling.
Emeralds, sapphires and rubies each have their own characteristics, and factors such as color, transparency, inclusions, treatment and origin can influence desirability and value.
The emeralds in the Art Deco bracelet, for example, are natural emerald-cut stones in varying sizes, with a medium-green color. Understanding the characteristics of colored gemstones can help buyers appreciate why two stones of the same type and similar size may have very different values.
Always Read the Lot Description Carefully
One of the most important rules for buying jewelry at auction is also one of the simplest: do your homework before you bid.
Read the complete lot description and pay attention to:
- Metal type and purity
- Gemstone type and whether stones are natural or synthetic
- Diamond characteristics and estimated carat weight
- Measurements and total weight
- Condition and any disclosed repairs or alterations
- Provenance or historical information, when available
- The auction house’s terms and conditions
Whether you’re an experienced collector or considering your first fine jewelry auction, taking the time to understand what you’re buying can make the experience even more rewarding. Registration is open now for EJ’s “Fine & Important Jewels: Antique to Contemporary” online auction, which takes place at 12 pm PT on Friday, September 4.
Interested bidders can preview items Wednesday through Friday at the auction house, 5880 W. Bell Road, in Glendale, or request to see condition reports. For details, visit ejsauction.com or call 623-878-2003.
